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How To Change Lower Ball Joint On 55 Chevy

Username Post: Removing Upper Brawl Joints (Topic#114295)
LuckyAries 
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ten-12-05 09:52 AM - Postal service#796069    

I purchased 2upper & 2 lower brawl joints.I thought I was in for some enjoyable work on my 57 chev until I checked out the upper ball joints,well these d** things are riveted in and I assume they are the originals>Has whatever body had any experience on how to remove them?
LuckyAries


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george88gta 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-12-05 09:57 AM - Postal service#796070    
In response to LuckyAries

Yes, they are the original way ball joints. You can chisel them off or apply a grinder. Remove the heads and then accept a dial and button out the rest. Make sure you accept removed the coil springs or at least relieved the tension, but you already knew that.


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Gray Headed Mule 
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Re: Removing Upper Brawl Joints
10-12-05 10:07 AM - Postal service#796071    
In response to george88gta

Or drill!

Mule

I'1000 sexy and I know it!

My 49 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe Restoration Project


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george88gta 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
x-12-05 10:12 AM - Post#796072    
In response to Gray Headed Mule

Drill will work, but I cant see straight so I e'er manage to drill in the wrong identify and wind upward with a larger hole than I demand. Sucks getting former.


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55RedRagtop 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-12-05 10:45 AM - Post#796073    
In response to george88gta

Are you lot sure that they demand replacing???????

Are they tight?

Tin you grab the stud and move it????

Is the grease cup nevertheless holding grease???

Why Am I asking all these Questions????? Because I have had only ONE, yes 1 upper ball joint go bad in 35 years of working on these cars. The stress is on the lower joint. The joints fabricated in 55-7 are WAYYYYYYYYYY improve material then what you are replacing them with!!!!!!!!! The new ones will not go along the grease around the WHOLE articulation. Daily use of these will cause them to neglect in 1/4 of the time the virtually 50 Year Former ONES YOU WHAT TO Supercede!!!!!

But my 2 cents worth.....

Mikey


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LuckyAries 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-12-05 11:00 AM - Post#796074    
In response to 55RedRagtop

I checked lower ball joints studs they are solid & cant move them at all!>>>The upper ,well like I said before I havnt tried to remove them still & aye in that location is grease exterior the cups.
Thanks


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hdsearcher 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
x-12-05 eleven:18 AM - Post#796075    
In response to LuckyAries

Lucky, I want to stress "SAFETY" on this job. It was eluded to higher up with "y'all already knew that". I don't want to assume. So, be very conscientious - the springs are nether tremendous pressure and can Kill. No short cuts - practise information technology safely. Ask if you lot don't know. Delight!!!

1957 4dr 210 Wagon prior flintstone style 1957 2drht Belair (first auto) 27+ years, put less than 450 miles on her. Still mine and non the story you'd remember.


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55RedRagtop 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-12-05 01:43 PM - Post#796076    
In response to hdsearcher

The upper and lower command arms MUST BE OFF THE Automobile TO Practice THIS JOB!!!!!! To do this the spring must be compressed, but not with just the weight of the car.

Y'all demand special tools to compress the spring. If you were to remove the upper brawl joint, while it is on the car. You might get KILLED, if the jump shot out and striking you.

Once off the machine, So endeavor and movement the UPPER brawl joint studs. This volition tell you if they are worn out. The lowers will be loose, considering of the design. They but get tight when the total pressure level of the front spring is released against the lower control arm. OEM lower ball joint studs would rattle, without grease in them, when off the
car..... By pattern.

Mikey


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CJS57 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-12-05 02:18 PM - Post#796077    
In response to 55RedRagtop

Non to start a hassle here, merely I just put a new ball joint in my 57 considering information technology was loose and had play in the ball and socket of it, when I took the springs out to replace them. The new TRW made in the USA ball joint was very tight and stiff. Also the other side brawl joint, with nine,000 miles on it would move much more freely, merely there was no slop at all.

Only my experience, yours may vary.

1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp, 58,000 original miles, original never rebuilt 283 engine, 245hp, Dual Fours, Tremec TKO 600 five-speed, 3.70 gears, AACA Senior in 1985
previous trifives:
1955 Belair Convt
1956 210 2dr Sdn
1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp


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55RedRagtop 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
ten-12-05 03:32 PM - Mail#796078    
In response to CJS57

If this was a lower, so yous replaced it with a lower quality unit then the OEM original. The movement up and down in the joint works like a pump to push grease up and downwardly in the joint. Later replacements are non made the same and will fail after less time and so the OEM ones, for this reason. THE Motility DISCRIPTION IS FROM CHEVY'S Own T-O-P Book.

Mikey


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hdsearcher 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-12-05 03:37 PM - Mail service#796079    
In response to 55RedRagtop

O.M. as stated - not to commencement an argument - but I guarentee I could modify the upper and/or the lower brawl joint without removing the a-arms from the auto.

1957 4dr 210 Wagon prior flintstone manner 1957 2drht Belair (first machine) 27+ years, put less than 450 miles on her. Still mine and not the story you'd think.


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Tinindian 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
x-12-05 05:33 PM - Post#796080    
In response to hdsearcher

In 15 years in GM parts 1959-1974 I sold several hundred brawl joints over the shop counter. And I guarante y'all every unmarried one was installed with the whole front end in the car. Follow the directions in the store transmission and you should have no trouble.

Happy Hobbying
"New Series Large 6"
6-30B Pontiac Custom Sedan
Assembled on June half-dozen, 1930 in Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada.


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55RedRagtop 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-thirteen-05 02:42 AM - Post#796081    
In response to Tinindian

I would agree that in a dealership, or large automotive repair shop, or even a quality small repair store this is the NORM.

Nonetheless, in this forum almost of the guys practice not have years of feel, and the best made tools for every job. And even so they all the same try to exercise every affair they tin on their car. I commend that, and volition continue to do that. I started out but like them. And subsequently 24 years of working on these cars daily, professionally, I was nigh KILLED when a car jumped off of its front end jack stands and crushed my caput. vi days in ICU, 40K in medical bills later, I Volition TELL Anybody TO Accept ALL NECESSARY CAUTION TO Forestall INJURY. I AM A PROFESSIONAL AUTO RESTORATION Adept, AND IT HAPPENED TO ME. What worse tin can happen to some ane with less experience and bottom, or no correct tools. Remember you can never use to much caution. I take THAT experience to make this argument. 2 years come up November 15th, I bargain with the after effects daily!!!!!!!!! And Alive to tell about it. Thanks to my Skillful Lord!!!!!

My more than 2 cents worth, more like 40K plus!!!!!!

Mikey


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Jay_Hammond 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
ten-thirteen-05 03:33 AM - Postal service#796082    
In response to hdsearcher

Like-minded with Mike here. The lowers seem to do all of the piece of work, the uppers are forth for the ride. Speaking just for myself, when I get around to doing ball joints, bushings are in need of replacing, also. So you might too accept information technology autonomously cempletely and safely.
Jay

'57 150 270hp '57 Delray 283hp '57 Adobe Beige rag, 220hp, O.D, posi '57 Nomad 220hp, glide '36 Plymouth (oops) woodie, w/325 Contrivance hemi


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rj_ly 
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Re: Removing Upper Brawl Joints
x-13-05 05:24 AM - Post#796083    
In response to Jay_Hammond

Your car gets a worn out upper ball joint, your tires volition tell you. Considering the upper brawl joint will allow the bike/tires to lean in. When this happens the tire tread volition wear out on the inside.

Been there, and been at that place.

You can replace an upper brawl joint with the upper A-arm still installed on the auto. But you lot'll probably wished you'd accept removed the upper A-arm in the kickoff place. Close quarters while trying to drive the original rivets out you could hit something other so the rivet heads? Similar the outer fender?

Most of us on here don't have a professional shop at our disposal. Nosotros have tools only in a higher place the nuts unless you've been "into" cars a long time. Or somone yous know has been?

Merely I tin fully concord safety Get-go!

Jacks stands and even the car ramps aren't 100% safety items. After 35 years of working on cars I'g nonetheless weary of getting under one with no wheel on it and setting on jack stands.

57 Hrdtp(mine for forty YEARS JULY 12)
57 210 4-dr Sdn(37 yrs Aug 12)
57 Hrdtp(32 yrs Jan 12)
57(windowed)South. Delivery(31 yrs Oct 12)
57 150 Wgn(24 yrs Mar 12)
57 210 2-dr Sdn(8 yrs Oct 12)


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GaryC 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-13-05 04:23 PM - Post#796084    
In response to LuckyAries

I'd make sure the uppers demand replaced. I've had 5 '57'due south and never had a bad upper. Not proverb y'all tin can't, they just don't go bad much. My current 1,000,000 mile '57 notwithstanding has rivited uppers. I assume they are the factory ones. Just a thought.
Gary

1957 Chevrolet Bel Air coupe, 300hp 327, M20 4 speed


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LuckyAries 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-14-05 04:12 AM - Post#796085    
In response to GaryC

Good thought Gary,I just thought if Im doing the works including tie rods I might every bit well,,,and thanx for the input

Charles


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LtFrankDrebin 
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Re: Removing Upper Ball Joints
10-14-05 05:xx AM - Mail service#796086    
In response to 55RedRagtop

I think for the upper ball joints, I replaced mine years ago without compressesing the scroll spring with any special tools. Every bit long as the lower control arm has a jack (although I recommend blocks of forest for more than stability) under it supporting the weight of the car and the upper control arm is not resting on the condom bumper below it, at that place is no pressure on the upper arm, and y'all can just disengage the ball joint. Getting those rivets out is going to require actress work though. Equally far as needing special tools for this chore goes-- I made my own coil jump compressor out of 5/8" all thread purchased from Habitation Depot, along with a few washers and heavy basics. I greased upwards the threads and washers where the nut will be travelling. I too fabricated a bracket for the lower control arm. Worked fine for me, and I didn't have to spend large bucks or become to Timbuktu to become one. You will also want to use a safety fill-in, like using a concatenation inside the coil leap just in case it lets get. If you use your head and some ingenuity, you can practice it. Just be smart well-nigh it. I'd be in the poorhouse if I bought every tool others told me I HAD to buy to piece of work on these cars.

'56 210 Townsman carriage 6cyl/3spd OD | '58 Impala Sierra Gold 348


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